There is nothing implicit about a rainbow’s ability to spark hope and happiness. Which is why you see it in everything from children’s cereal and pride flags to fashion and technology. Even Apple understands that its Spinning Wait Cursor is slightly less infuriating when it looks like a colourful beach ball. So, of course, the world of fine watchmaking has capitalised on this magical palette in recent years. Rainbows are delightful.
This year alone offers an array of rainbow-hued watches.
Parmigiani, Rolex and Chopard have brought the multi-coloured bezel trend to the Tonda 1950, Day-Date 36 and Imperiale models respectively. Hublot and Audemars Piguet present two each: The Hublot Big Bang Unico Rainbow and Big Bang One Click Rainbow, and the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Frosted Gold Double Balance Openworked “Rainbow” and the pink gold Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Chronograph. These are flashy times indeed.
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Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Chronograph; Image: Courtesy of Audemars Piguet
And we have, of all brands, Rolex to thank for this fun turn. In 2012, the Crown released a Daytona Cosmograph with a rainbow bezel adorned with 36 baguette-set sapphires with diamond-set lugs and indices. The notion (and appearance) of an iconic driver’s watch getting a rainbow makeover was frankly a little ridiculous and Rolex collectors were understandably perplexed, charmed or horrified.
But Rolex does nothing by halves and a closer, longer look at the popular chronograph—still equipped with the trusty automatic calibre 4130—will reveal the impeccable gem-setting technique from its 20 in-house gem-setters as well as stones with perfectly graduated colour—all of them Internally Flawless. Its limited production gave the watch, available then in white gold or yellow gold, a cult following and when it was discontinued shortly after, prices for it skyrocketed. It’s now worth three times its original price on the secondary market.
Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona; Image: Courtesy of Rolex
The Rainbow Daytona made a comeback in 2018, reappearing in Everose gold, Rolex’s patented pink gold alloy that was engineered to never lose its rosy hue. The diamond indices have also been replaced by more multi-coloured sapphires. After the gone-too-soon 2012 models, no one was going to mock another rainbow Rolex. Celebrities like John Mayer, Adam Levine and Mark Wahlberg are proud owners of Rainbow Daytonas, proving that the style isn’t even exclusive to female buyers.
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