The old teak house is surrounded by a lush garden that is an oasis in Sukhumvit
Situated in a quaint century-old white teak house with louvred window shutters and an assortment of ape graffiti that provides a modern twist, it’s not until you walk through to the back of the elegant restaurant that its name, Monkey Pod, suddenly becomes self-explanatory. The vast tropical garden beyond is dominated by a magnificent old giant monkey pod tree (or chamchuree in Thai). Beneath its shady canopy is a cocktail bar surrounded by a decked seating area, which makes for an inviting spot in which to enjoy a pre-dinner drink or a sun-downer or two accompanied by a non-intrusive soundtrack of laid-back jazz.
Originally planned as a fine dining outlet, the pandemic played havoc with the best-laid plans of ape and men and caused the Monkey Pod concept to morph into a mix of tapas bar and Lao fusion restaurant, which is actually a much better idea under the circumstances. Run under the Blue Elephant Group umbrella, it is helmed by the young duo of chef Thavisack Phouthavong, or Dou, and restaurant manager and sommelier Jirakrit Oonjit (who also knows a thing or two about great craft beers).
The monkey pod tree is a dominating presence in the huge garden, under which is an open bar 
The refreshing Monkey Spice mocktail
Of Lao origin, chef Dou was born in Belgium and raised in London. The Cordon Bleu graduate worked under the guidance of Michelin-starred chefs such as Claude Bosi (Hibiscus, Bibendum) and Albert Adria (El Bulli, Tickets, 40 days) and at top London eateries such as Bao and Xu. His international experience certainly informs his cooking, which delivers elevated old family-style Lao-Isan recipes with lovely contemporary twists.
Alcohol ban notwithstanding (at the time of review), prep your palate with a refreshing Monkey Spice mocktail made of passion fruit and frothy egg white. Then open with Dou’s signature Lao dog, a dish in which he replaces the traditional buns with steamed muntou baos which are fried to make the outside crisp. Instead of normal bangers, the accompanying spicy sai ua Isan-style sausages topped with a tomato jeow salsa—made from Dou’s mother’s recipe—is very moreish.
Lao dog
Next, titillate your taste buds with an enervating pink-hued Monkey Spritzer comprising lychee, strawberry syrup and egg white as a prelude to chilli-marinated free-range chicken served with pickled onion and Thai chimichurri sauce. The tender Khlongphai Farm organic chicken is marinated with yellow chilli instead of turmeric, giving it a similar colouring but also an added spiciness. The pickled onion in beetroot juice and the chimichurri sauce of mint, coriander and dill provide the perfect cooling foil.
Moo pla ra pork chop with parsley salad
Pla ra, the pungent Isan fermented fish, is not to everyone’s taste but moo pla ra, or organic pork chop glazed with home-stewed pla ra, is too intriguing not to try. Marinated in brine and cooked sous vide for a melt-in-your-mouth texture, the chop is then glazed and finished off with a quick grilling over charcoal to lock in the flavour. The result is a succulent, aromatic delight with a pla ra sauce that enhances and does not exhibit the usual noxic flavour. It is served with a salad of three types of parsley.
The pla ra’s unique flavours have also been tapped for a special one-dish meal that has become something of a home delivery favourite at present: moo pla ra khao phad jeow bong, or grilled marinated pork collar served over fried rice with Lao-style XO sauce and topped with fish sauce-cured egg yolk. Mix it all together and you have a dish reminiscent of Korean bibimbab, which can also be served with beef slices.
Moo pla ra khao phad jeow bong rice and pork
If you have opted to dine indoors, why not take dessert in the garden and try Oops…We Copied a 3-Star Chef, chef Dou’s take on the famous Oops! I Dropped It! lemon dessert from a certain Michelin-star festooned restaurant in Modena, Italy. Comprising milk ice cream, som saa Thai orange and basil sponge cake, it is a refreshing finish to a well-presented meal full of fantastic flavours and textures.
Monkey Pod
27 Sukhumvit Soi 13
Open daily 11:30am-9:30pm
02-115-9830
See also: Indulge All Your Senses At Chim Chim
