The spectacular green granite bar at Tenshino is a centrepiece of the restaurant’s bohemian chic decor By Matt Wilde November 18, 2019
Bohemian and bold is the best way to describe the decor at Tenshino. What used to be Pullman Bangkok King Power’s wine pub now sports beautifully patterned brocade-like wallpaper and inviting velvet finishes on chairs and banquettes. The colour schemes are rich and luxurious, redolent of 1920s chic and perfectly epitomised by the bar, which is clad in green granite and accented with golden bamboo embellishments. The space certainly has a laid-back, inviting feel to it, divided as it is into five sections to accommodate dining parties both small and large.
Chef Kwanchanok Srithawatchara
The innovative Japanese fare created at Tenshino by senior sous chef Kwanchanok Srithawatchara, or chef Pan, is heavily influenced by French culinary traditions and the premium ingredients she uses are what you’d associate with fine dining—Hokkaido scallops and wagyu beef from Japan, Normandy oysters and foie gras from France, salmon from New Zealand and Iberico pork from Spain. However, the presentation is unpretentious, although not to say lacking in sophistication and what arrives at the table looks and tastes great and fits with the goal of creating a relaxed, informal dining vibe.
Chef Pan, who hails from Samut Songkram, caught the culinary bug as a child watching her mother cook at home. The Suan Dusit University graduate in home economics trained in the kitchens of the Mandarin Oriental and Plaza Athenee hotels. She honed her skills in French cooking under executive chef Dominique Ferchaud. Her Japanese cuisine with Gallic twists has been developed through regular visits to Tenshino by guest chefs with Michelin credentials.
A beautifully presented side dish of cold black truffle soba noodles is topped with salmon roe that bursts with flavour
A fine example of the restaurant’s East-meets-West approach can be seen in chef Pan’s signature starter of ebi consommé served in the French style under a delightful dome of puff pastry. Piping hot, it is delicate in flavour with shrimp (ebi) and diced seasonal vegetables. For contrast try it with a side dish of cold black truffle soba noodles dressed with pearls of salmon roe that burst pleasingly in the mouth.
Succulent wagyu beef tenderloin with roasted bone marrow and daikon puree
For a main course recommended is wagyu beef tenderloin with soya butter and roasted bone marrow. This is a rich dish served with a powerful reduction but it is offset by a slightly sweet puree of Japanese white winter radish. Toasted macadamia nuts also add a lovely crunch. If beef isn’t your thing then a good alternative is Iberico pluma, which is slices of tender pork served with poached egg and pickled ginger.
Seared New Zealand salmon in a matcha sauce with fresh cucumber on a bed of pickled Japanese leeks
Seafood lovers will have a difficult time deciding between two superb signature offerings. The first is whole lobster dressed with seaweed butter, zesty yuzu ponzu and togarashi spice—the dried Japanese chilli, which gives a lovely lingering warmth on the palate. The second is a dish of seared New Zealand salmon in a generous serving of matcha sauce. It has nice textural contrasts with fresh crunch and vibrancy provided by fresh cucumber and Japanese leeks that have been pickled in-house.
Chef Pan’s innovative take on tiramisu, her version made with yuzu and a crumble topping
To end a very enjoyable meal packed with interesting tastes and textures try azuki matcha mochi, which is red bean jelly balls in a sweet matcha sauce. Alternatively, yuzu tiramisu is an interesting finish. Made with a crumble topping, it may look heavy at the end of a satisfying meal but it is surprisingly light and has a delicate palate-cleansing citrus flavour.
Tenshino
Pullman Bangkok King Power, 8/2 Rangnam Road
Open daily from 6pm-11pm
02-680-9999, tenshinobangkok.com
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