Somewhat on the fringes of the dining radar up in Nonthaburi, Pla Raa presents Northeastern Thai delicacies created with finesse. With bistro vibes and jazz tunes playing in the background, the casual eatery redefines Isan dining with effortless style. Looks aside, this hidden gem serves up delicious and flavourful comfort fare—some dishes true to their roots, some featuring a unique punch.
The restaurant was co-founded by foodie and hotelier Werasak Choonhajak, whose dream of putting more dishes with pla ra (fermented fish seasoning) onto the Michelin stage inspired this charming venture. “If anchovies can get international recognition, so can pla ra, don’t you think?” he says. “On the other hand, there are still many Thais who have a negative perception of this local culinary staple, that it is unhygienic and so on.” A wooden plate mounted on one wall also illustrates Werasak’s personal passion for the pungent condiment. On it is a directive from the Ministry of Agriculture—originally published in the Thai Royal Gazette—that details the quality standards of pla ra.
Delicious deep-fried pork belly
Today we dine with the host himself, who introduces us to some of the restaurant’s most popular picks from a wide span of culinary offerings. Before kicking off the meal, guests are treated to a complimentary bite of pla ra over crisps to warm up the palate. Chopped fermented fish is wok-fried to bring out bold, well-seasoned flavours, making it the perfect accompaniment for the buttery, ultra thin cracker.
Bold and flavourful, this dish of pasta stir-fried in the host’s branded pla ra relish is wonderful with crispy salmon belly
With over 30 choices of som tam across the bulky menu, diners are sure to find an appropriate fit for their tastes. A dramatic serving of the signature som tam, in which crunchy papaya and velvety young coconut are presented in long, flat slices, arrives in a coconut shell. The dish is a beautiful marriage of sweet, salty, sour and spicy characters, much owing to the umami-laden condiments of house-pickled crabs, fresh eggplant, tomato, kratin seeds and, of course, pla ra.
