While the 1980s are often referenced in fashion and art, the world of high jewellery has been slower on the uptake. After all, images of wild neon lights, audacious colours and bold statements are at odds to the typically romantic and poetic nature of high jewellery. Trust Roman jeweller Bulgari to take up that challenge, and orchestrate a 1980s comeback that harks to its heritage but still presents a natural evolution of its current aesthetic.
The starting point for the Wild Pop collection is Nicola Bulgari’s—heir of the founder of the house, Sotirio Bulgari—friendship with 1980s icon and king of pop, Andy Warhol. The artist famously had an affinity for beautiful objets d’art, and would often reference and wear Bulgari’s jewels and timepieces. His friendship with Nicola was solidified when the Italian moved to New York, ushering an era of decadent, over-the-top designs at the Roman brand. While Wild Pop is a riot of colours that recalls to that era of decadence, it is imbued with the jeweller’s spirit, from the use of vibrant coloured gemstones and cabochon cuts to geometric and circular motifs and kitschy emblems.
Bulgari creative director Lucia Silvestri began the Wild Pop journey with one simple phrase: “You have to dare” and this audacious ethos has been injected into every piece. Most demonstrative of this risqué spirit is the Happy Leaves necklace, which features a celebration of diamonds and emeralds emulating the shape of the plant.
In fact, a kaleidoscope of gemstones has been harnessed to portray the bon vivant and eclectic sprit of the era, one marked by fame, music, and wild fashion. Daring magpies will love the kitschy Pop Mics suite, endowed with amethysts, peridots, rubellites and aquamarines, as well as diamonds and onyx cladding the body of the mic.)