It's not often that we get sneak peaks of high jewellery collections before they launch—there are no established pre-SIHH or pre-Baselworld releases like there is in the watch world, and since the collections serve a relatively select (and very discerning) audience, high jewellery pieces don't usually make news headlines until their official relase. Until now that is.
Alongside the other expected who-wore-what announcements in in my email inbox this morning came an innocuous one from Tiffany & Co. Nothing was particularly unusual, until I spotted the line "Presenter Gal Gadot debut the first pieces from the 2018 Tiffany Blue Book Collection, including an exquisite necklace with a 27 carat aquamarine drop and over 1000 diamonds."
"So what's the big deal?", you might ask. "Celebrities wear high jewellery on the red carpet all the time." While that is true, and Tiffany's Blue Book collection is one that is released regularly every year, this year's Blue Book collection will be the first ever designed by Reed Krakoff, Tiffany's designer transplant from the fashion world. Krakoff took the helm as chief artistic officer in early 2017, to much speculation and industry attention, chiefly because this is the first time a big-name designer has ever been at the helm of a jewellery company. The primary reason for this is that, presumable, most brands choose to push their jewellery ahead of their designer.
Since Krakoff's appointment, Tiffany & Co. has debuted its first home and accessories collection, opened the Tiffany Blue Box cafe in New York, and released its first visual campaign since Krakoff's reign began. All of these seem to be building towards But none of these dig into the meat of what Tiffany & Co. is known and beloved for—jewellery.
We had also previously been told that the Blue Book collection, which is usually released in April, will not be coming out during the same time this year. Instead, it will debut near the end of the 2018.
So when Gal Gadot debuted the Blue Book necklace unexpectedly at the Academy Awards, we sat up and took notice.
"While inspired by Tiffany & Co.'s extraordinary Art Deco jewelry from the 1930s, the necklace's icy aquamarines, classic lines and graphic shapes juxtaposed with platinum and diamonds make it feel irreverent and unexpectedly modern," said Reed Krakoff, chief artistic officer, Tiffany & Co, about the necklace. "It took nearly a year to procure and cut the ethically sourced gemstones, reflecting the exacting standards and craftsmanship of our artisans."
The fact that particular emphasis was placed on the ethical sourcing of gemstones is an encouraging one, and comes after a Human Rights Watch report indicated that Tiffany & Co. was one of the few jewellers that had taken significant steps towards responsible sourcing. More immediately interesting, however, are the hints towards what Krakoff has in the works for the Blue Book collection. We surmise that he will focus on the art deco elements that have always been a part of Tiffany & Co.'s design DNA, but contemporise the pieces for the modern woman.
So what does Gal Gadot have to say about this special moment? The Oscars presenter and Wonder Woman remarked “I am thrilled to be part of an amazing legacy of inspiring women who have worn Tiffany for over 180 years. As a longtime fan of the brand, it means so much to get to wear this special custom piece from the Tiffany Blue Book Collection.”
So while we continue to speculate over Krakoff's plans for Tiffany & Co., we will leave you with these stunning images of a jewel-draped Gal Gadot preparing for her appearance at the 2018 Academy Awards, shot by photographer Renell Medrano.